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| Welcome Fellow Tastegurus! |
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Dear Readers,
Welcome to Tastegurus issue two.
Have
you been thinking about honey lately? Us, too.
In this issue we discuss single-varietal and micro-climate honeys , how
chefs are getting involved with beekeepers (no, not like that) and how to cook with honey. And what about mead ? “What, that
old-fashioned sounding “honey wine” from Beowulf days?” you ask…. Well, it’s not just for Renaissance fairs
anymore. We’ve uncovered some prime
examples of modern mead making at its best.
We’ll also learn bees make honey and how it gets to us.
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| Trends |
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What's the Buzz on Honey?
Around the world, beekeepers are bringing to market exciting
new honeys, experimenting with single-varietals, micro-climates and sometimes partnering with chefs and meaderies
to hone just the right flavor profile necessary for a specific
preparation. Chefs have heard the call
and are experimenting more and more with honey in savory as well as sweet
preparations. For those who love honey,
this is a sweet time indeed.
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| Drinks |
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A Myriad of Meads Mead has come a long way since the middle ages. Today's artisan
meaderies are challenging a dusty image and reintroducing this ancient
drink to a new generation. Here are some meads we recommend, from
bone-dry to dessert-sweet. Cheers!
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| Drinks |
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Mead Gets a Make-Over
Mead is probably the oldest alcoholic beverage known to
Man. Just about every ancient culture
was known to make it, and prior to beer and wine, it was what everyone drank
with dinner. If you’ve heard of mead,
chances are it was while reading middle-English texts in college such as
Chaucer or Beowulf. But mead making has
come a long way since then, and a fresh crop of new mead makers want to change
the way you think about this ancient beverage.
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| Ingredients |
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Salt-loving Lambs
The windswept marsh lands of the northern French coastline are home to
some of the France's most sought after culinary products, both from the
sea and the land. Scallops, oyster, mussels and lobster for partaking
of the sea and potatoes, apples, butter and the exquisite pré salé lamb,
"pre-salted" from grazing on salty sea-brush around Mont Saint-Michel
during low tide. But don't go looking outside of Brittany or
Normandy for this delicate, tasty lamb raised on salt sprayed grasses,
since the majority of the production is ony shared with locals.
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| Primer |
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Parmigiano Reggiano - Too Popular for It's Own Good?
Regarded as the "king of cheeses" in Italy, parmigiano reggiano is
nonetheless a monarch of the people, frequenting dinner tables across Italy
each day. But the crown has slipped under pressure from oversupply, falling
prices and an international identity crisis.
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| Primer |
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Culatello - Italian for "Tasty Little Butt"
Did I hear that right? Did that mustached man from Parma just profess his love for
pear-shaped rumps? Ah, before you get
any wild ideas you should know that he was likely referring to the “king” of Parma’s prestigious cured
meat traditions, Culatello di Zibello.
Culatello, which means “little butt” in Italian, is a pear-shaped, air-cured
salume which is rarer and more precious than even the famous Prosciutto di
Parma.
Salty, meaty, with just the right amont of fat that literally (and
wonderfully) melts on your tongue, it's worth a trip to the villages of
the Po Valley to taste the real thing.
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| How-to |
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The Making of Parmigiano Reggiano
It takes over one year for parmigiano reggiano to make it
from cow to cheese board. The best-known of the grana-style cheeses,
parmigiano reggiano has inspired many copies, but there is only one true
reggiano. It takes the sun and soil of the Po Valley, and the
accumulation of generations of how-to knowledge to make the world’s favorite
cheese. Louisa Cass walks you thought the process with master
cheesemaker Bruno Monica.
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| Techniques |
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Shui Gou-rmand
The last time I met Lina, proprietor of Le Charm, a French
bistro in San Francisco,
it was Feb 15th dinner at her restaurant. She flitted from table to table,
serving up food as well as serious gossip, oozing professional charm. "You
are. So. Thin." She always knew the right thing to say to each of her
diners. And that was always the right thing to say. Unlike most times Lina
saw me - in my Chef jacket and dirty from the rigors of the kitchen - on this
post V-Day, I was all cleaned up and appropriately dressed. We chatted and set a rendezvous to make dumplings. The humble dumpling, to Lina, is filled with not only meat
and vegetables but nostalgia of growing up in Taipei.
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| Street Food |
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A Midnight Snack in Mexico - Tacos al Pastor Tacos al pastor is a dish dear to many Mexican hearts. Consisting of slabs of marinated pork held
together by a skewer, slow-roasted over charcoal and served with pineapple, cilantro,
onions and hot sauce on a small corn tortilla, this is Mexican City street food
at its best. You can find the giant
spinning kebab-like skewer of pork and pineapple in just about every taqueria in Mexico City.
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| Recipes |
 | Honey Bread Chef Clint Cook at the Hotel Mac in Point Richmond, Calif. makes this tasty bread for his family at home. Chef Cook is an
enthusiastic proponent of honey and prefers it to sugar in most
recipes, recommending Marshalls Honey Farm honey from Napa Valley.
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 | Kina Mousse
“Kina have a beer with
that?” Developed by chef Maureen Maxwell at BeesOnline , this dish
won Monteith’s "Wild Food Challenge" - Entrée
Course for Best individual Beer and Food Match in 2003. Kina is a
wild New Zealand sea urchin. If you're not lucky enough to live
there, you may substitute sea urchin roe.
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 | Pears Poached in Mead This is a light and wonderfully delicate dessert. Everything about
it is subtle, except for the pear - the combination of vanilla, mead
and honey bring out the peariness of the pears like nothing else.
Use not-quite-ripe pears for the best results. (Is "peariness" a
word?)
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 | Honey Blackberry Muffins Barely sweet, these muffins are almost scone-like. Perfect for
breakfast, an afternoon snack or served with macerated berries and
sweetened whip cream for dessert.
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 | Sage Honey Cake
This cake makes a delicious dessert when served with a
dollop of Greek yogurt (such as Total) and marinated morello cherries, or fresh
fruit.
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 | Tacos al Pastor These tacos are simply delicious. Between the marinated pork,
pineapple and toppings on small tortillas, you won't be able to stop at
just one. Don't be alarmed by the number of chilies used in this
recipe - they add complex savory flavors, but not much in the way of heat
(that's what the red and green hot sauces are for...).
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 | Roast Rack of Pré Salé Lamb with Sorrel Sauce Sorrel's lemony character is the perfect foil for Pré Salé lamb
chops. This sauce and method can be used with great success on a
leg of lamb as well. For that preperation, decrease the oven
temperature and increase the cooking time. Best made during
spring when sorrel leaves are young and tender.
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Upcoming Articles
| Dear Readers, | | Hidden Pearls - Local Oysters Around the World | | Getting This Damn Thing Open | | Where's the Oyster? | | There Are Oysters in My Beer | | Wine with Oysters, Naturellement! | | 10 Questions for Michael Moran, Current World Oyster Opening Champion | | Le Baron Rouge Wine & Oyster Bar | | Buying Premium Green Tea | | How-to Brew Green Tea | | Show Me the Chutney - Fiji Indian Expat Comfort Food | | Pierre Hermé: Using Fashion to Launch Haute Couture Patisseries in Japan | | Oyster Sauce - Extracting Umami from the Sea | | Matcha Pancakes with Blueberry Compote | | Lemon Matcha Poundcake | | Fish & Chips with Green Tea-Caper Mayonnaise | | Matcha Latte | | Rabbit Stifado | | Orange-Ouzo Shrimp with Reglisse Rice |
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