Magazine
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April-2007
Welcome Fellow Tastegurus!
Dear Readers,

Welcome to Tastegurus issue two. 

Have you been thinking about honey lately?  Us, too.  In this issue we discuss single-varietal and micro-climate honeys , how chefs are getting involved with beekeepers (no, not like that) and how to cook with honey.  And what about mead ?  What, that old-fashioned sounding “honey wine” from Beowulf days?” you ask….  Well, it’s not just for Renaissance fairs anymore.  We’ve uncovered some prime examples of modern mead making at its best.  We’ll also learn bees make honey and how it gets to us. 


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Trends
What's the Buzz on Honey?

Around the world, beekeepers are bringing to market exciting new honeys, experimenting with single-varietals, micro-climates and  sometimes partnering with chefs and meaderies to hone just the right flavor profile necessary for a specific preparation.  Chefs have heard the call and are experimenting more and more with honey in savory as well as sweet preparations.  For those who love honey, this is a sweet time indeed.


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How-to
Honey Lesson
From flower to jar, Helene Marshall explains the whole honey making process.  
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Drinks
A Myriad of Meads
Mead has come a long way since the middle ages.  Today's artisan meaderies are challenging a dusty image and reintroducing this ancient drink to a new generation.  Here are some meads we recommend, from bone-dry to dessert-sweet.  Cheers!
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Drinks
Mead Gets a Make-Over

Mead is probably the oldest alcoholic beverage known to Man.  Just about every ancient culture was known to make it, and prior to beer and wine, it was what everyone drank with dinner.  If you’ve heard of mead, chances are it was while reading middle-English texts in college such as Chaucer or Beowulf.  But mead making has come a long way since then, and a fresh crop of new mead makers want to change the way you think about this ancient beverage. 


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Ingredients
Salt-loving Lambs

The windswept marsh lands of the northern French coastline are home to some of the France's most sought after culinary products, both from the sea and the land. Scallops, oyster, mussels and lobster for partaking of the sea and potatoes, apples, butter and the exquisite pré salé lamb, "pre-salted" from grazing on salty sea-brush around Mont Saint-Michel during low tide. But don't go looking outside of Brittany or Normandy for this delicate, tasty lamb raised on salt sprayed grasses, since the majority of the production is ony shared with locals.


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Primer
Parmigiano Reggiano - Too Popular for It's Own Good?

Regarded as the "king of cheeses" in Italy, parmigiano reggiano is nonetheless a monarch of the people, frequenting dinner tables across Italy each day. But the crown has slipped under pressure from oversupply, falling prices and an international identity crisis.


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Primer
Culatello - Italian for "Tasty Little Butt"

Did I hear that right?  Did that mustached man from Parma just profess his love for pear-shaped rumps?  Ah, before you get any wild ideas you should know that he was likely referring to the “king” of Parma’s prestigious cured meat traditions, Culatello di Zibello.  Culatello, which means “little butt” in Italian, is a pear-shaped, air-cured salume which is rarer and more precious than even the famous Prosciutto di Parma.  Salty, meaty, with just the right amont of fat that literally (and wonderfully) melts on your tongue, it's worth a trip to the villages of the Po Valley to taste the real thing.


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How-to
The Making of Parmigiano Reggiano

It takes over one year for parmigiano reggiano to make it from cow to cheese board.  The best-known of the grana-style cheeses, parmigiano reggiano has inspired many copies, but there is only one true reggiano.  It takes the sun and soil of the Po Valley, and the accumulation of generations of how-to knowledge to make the world’s favorite cheese.   Louisa Cass walks you thought the process with master cheesemaker Bruno Monica.


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How-to
Raw to Cured in 16 Months
How-to make culatello,  of one of the world's most precious cured meats.  Brita Rosenheim takes us on a step-by-step journey of the process.  
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Techniques
Shui Gou-rmand

The last time I met Lina, proprietor of Le Charm, a French bistro in San Francisco, it was Feb 15th dinner at her restaurant. She flitted from table to table, serving up food as well as serious gossip, oozing professional charm. "You are. So. Thin." She always knew the right thing to say to each of her diners. And that was always the right thing to say. Unlike most times Lina saw me - in my Chef jacket and dirty from the rigors of the kitchen - on this post V-Day, I was all cleaned up and appropriately dressed.  We chatted and set a rendezvous to make dumplings. The humble dumpling, to Lina, is filled with not only meat and vegetables but nostalgia of growing up in Taipei.


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Street Food
A Midnight Snack in Mexico - Tacos al Pastor
Tacos al pastor is a dish dear to many Mexican hearts.  Consisting of slabs of marinated pork held together by a skewer, slow-roasted over charcoal and served with pineapple, cilantro, onions and hot sauce on a small corn tortilla, this is Mexican City street food at its best.  You can find the giant spinning kebab-like skewer of pork and pineapple in just about every taqueria in Mexico City. 
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Recipes
Honey Bread Honey Bread
Chef Clint Cook at the Hotel Mac in Point Richmond, Calif. makes this tasty bread for his family at home.  Chef Cook is an enthusiastic proponent of honey and prefers it to sugar in most recipes, recommending Marshalls Honey Farm honey from Napa Valley.
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Baked Wild Perch with Rosemary Honey Vinaigrette and Watercress Salad Baked Wild Perch with Rosemary Honey Vinaigrette and Watercress Salad

This dish was inspired by a similar preparation of Sicilian origins mentioned to us by Maureen Maxwell of BeesOnline.  The rosemary honey adds a complex sweetness to the vinaigrette sauce, which is also a lovely accent to the watercress salad. 


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Lamb and Pork Meatballs with Spicy Honey-Yogurt Dipping Sauce Lamb and Pork Meatballs with Spicy Honey-Yogurt Dipping Sauce
These tempting bites make a perfect appetizer or hors d'oevre.  
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Kina Mousse Kina Mousse
“Kina have a beer with that?”  Developed by chef Maureen Maxwell at BeesOnline , this dish won Monteith’s "Wild Food Challenge" - Entrée Course for Best individual Beer and Food Match in 2003.  Kina is a wild New Zealand sea urchin.  If you're not lucky enough to live there, you may substitute sea urchin roe.

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Pea-shoot Salad with Roasted Baby Turnips and Carrots in a Warm Honey Vinaigrette Pea-shoot Salad with Roasted Baby Turnips and Carrots in a Warm Honey Vinaigrette
This salad showcases the best of the first-of-spring bounty.  Pea shoots are often stir-fried in Chinese cooking.  Here we keep them raw and fresh, barely warmed with the heated vinaigrette. 
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Braised Lamb Shanks with Chestnut Honey and Aromatic Spices Braised Lamb Shanks with Chestnut Honey and Aromatic Spices
Deep colored chestnut honey comliments the Indian-inspired spice mixture for a warm and tasty, savory and sweet, complexly flavored lamb dish.
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Pears Poached in Mead Pears Poached in Mead
This is a light and wonderfully delicate dessert.  Everything about it is subtle, except for the pear - the combination of vanilla, mead and honey bring out the peariness of the pears like nothing else.  Use not-quite-ripe pears for the best results.  (Is "peariness" a word?)
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Honey Blackberry Muffins Honey Blackberry Muffins
Barely sweet, these muffins are almost scone-like.  Perfect for breakfast, an afternoon snack or served with macerated berries and sweetened whip cream for dessert.
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Sage Honey Cake Sage Honey Cake

This cake makes a delicious dessert when served with a dollop of Greek yogurt (such as Total) and marinated morello cherries, or fresh fruit. 


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Tacos al Pastor Tacos al Pastor
These tacos are simply delicious.  Between the marinated pork, pineapple and toppings on small tortillas, you won't be able to stop at just one.  Don't be alarmed by the number of chilies used in this recipe - they add complex savory flavors, but not much in the way of  heat (that's what the red and green hot sauces are for...).  
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Roast Rack of Pré Salé Lamb with Sorrel Sauce Roast Rack of Pré Salé Lamb with Sorrel Sauce
Sorrel's lemony character is the perfect foil for Pré Salé lamb chops.  This sauce and method can be used with great success on a leg of lamb as well.  For that preperation, decrease the oven temperature and increase the cooking time.  Best made during spring when sorrel leaves are young and tender.
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Shui Gou or Potstickers Shui Gou or Potstickers
A classic of Tiwanese cooking, shui gou are moist and delectable. 

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