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How-to make culatello, of one of the world's most precious cured
meats. Brita Rosenheim takes us on a step-by-step journey of the process.
Upon receiving the fresh pork legs from the abattoir, the
head chef and his colleagues will take each leg, remove the skin, debone it, and
trim the fat.
Next they will carve off
what is considered the lower quality of meat (called the “fiocchetto”).
Once they have finished, they are left with
the most tender piece of the upper leg; the back muscle of thepig’s haunch.
They tie this piece up, sprinkle it with
salt, massage it vigorously and put it into the refrigerator for 10 days in
order to rest and soak in the salt. Each
of the 10 days they take the meat out and further massage it so that the salt
is absorbed as much as possible.
After 10 days, they remove the meat and season it with more
salt, but also add select seasonings.
For example, at Antica Corte Pallavicina they first sprinkle the meat
with sparkling red wine (Fontana), rub it with garlic cloves, and then roll in
salt and sprinkle with coarsely crushed black pepper.
The meat is then slipped into a pig bladder
(interestingly, since you have two culatelli vs. one bladder per each pig, many
of the bladders come from the Prosciutto di Parma pigs) and is artistically and
tightly sewn together with a heavy string.
It is important to tie the string tightly because it helps to insure
that there are no remaining air pockets. The bladder is then punctured in
several places in order to allow the fat and juices to drip out during the
drying process.
After attaching the producers’ label on a string, the
precious bundle is moved to the next phase where it rests, and begins to
dry. This process lasts for a 30-60 days,
and afterwards the culatello begins the phase of “stagionatura,” or period of
aging.
The particular climate in the River Po Valley is essential
to Culatello di Zibello’s characteristic flavor and perfume. The salume’s unique aging process is
dependent on two distinct seasonal changes in the Parma Lowlands. In the autumn and winter months the weather
is cold, very foggy and damp, while the summer days are unbearably hot and
muggy. Although the temperatures are
diverse, the high humidity throughout the seasons is necessary in order to
maintain the salume’s soft and slow maturation.
The culatello will receive its PDO stamp on a red string
once its quality has been approved by the PDO inspector. If the culatello has been made by a producer
in the Consorzio, a third stamp will be attached by string after 11 months of
aging, assuming the culatello has been deemed deserving after inspection.
The Consorzio’s culatello must age for at least 12 months,
but depending on the weather, its minimum aging period (the period of time it
takes before it is edible) may be longer or shorter. For example, if the summer was exceptionally
hot the culatello may be cured sooner that 12 months, and if it was an
especially cool year the culatello may need up to 16 months to cure. Assuming a typical year however, the
producers do not usually age the salume for more than 24 months. Once fully cured, the culatello will weigh
between 3 and 5 kg, which represents a weight loss of approximately 55%.
Photo credit: Consorzio de Culatello di Zibello, Charles Wolinsky
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